Like Raspberry Malted Rocks, Broken Down
It’s a rare wine that sticks in your head for months, one that just rests on your
deliciously soft grey-matter, daring you to compare other wines to it. Some wines never live up to their initial promise, like, uh i don’t know…think of a bad sexual metaphor that both describes “unfullfillment” and manages to overdescribe the importance of wine. Some hit the target perfectly like a bad military metaphor that gives wine unintended violence. And then some wines are better than first impressions, which brings us back to a sexual metapor (perhaps more apt this time? No, still ridiculous sounding. I should edit for Natalie MacLean). This wine is the latter.
I bought this wine from Guilhaume Gerard
I tried a little bit of this wine back in early December, enough to make me think about it, but not enough for it to work its way through my head, from that initial thoughtful taste to the last tipsy dregs that make you rethink your initial thoughts. This was a wine that i couldn’t shake because it wasn’t fully formed in my head, but what was formed was excellent. Suffice to say i purchased a bottle when i first tried it, and it has just been sitting there, taunting me.
Now, if you’ve never had poulsard, (or ploussard as it’s also known) it’s a grape that is grown (perhaps exclusively?) in the Jura region of France. It tends to make red wines that are balanced on the razor edge of chalky minerality, fruit and acid. When done right, as in the hands of Manu Houillon of Overnoy-Houillon, who made this wine, it makes wines of an intensely light quality. Made in a completely natural style, with little or no (i think absolutely no sulfur is used in this wine, but i may be wrong Edit: Guilhaume informs that there is no sulfur used in of their wines) this wine exhibits zero signs of being fucked with at all. The bottle had the qualities of raspberry malted rocks, broken down (if you get the reference, good on you), going from a tighter mineral driven style at first, and opening up to more light fruit and floral notes as the night progressed. This is really stunning stuff, and a good contender for the best wines of the year post that i will probably never do. Unfortunately this was my last bottle of this wine, so now i just have to imagine (insert auto-erotic metaphor).
Note: The wines of Overnoy-Houillion can be hard to track down. Other producers from the Jura that i trust are Jaques Puffeney, Stephane Tissot, Domaine Montbourgeau, Tournelle, and Domaine Labet. All these producers make highly unique wines that can’t be mistaken for anything but Jura wines. If your French is better than mine a great resource for the wines of the Jura is Le Blof d’Olif. Joe Dressner didn’t pay me for this review.
What to eat: I had pan roasted pork chops, but a nice simply made chicken would work. Don’t overwhelm this wine.
What to listen to: