Day 11: The VLM/Sharon Bowman Experiment
Today is a double dose from two of my favorite bloggers, Sharon Bowman and VLM (The Vulgar Little Monkey), who are long time internet adversaries and real life friends. They have radically different styles, but you’ll figure that out soon enough. Each one posted to their own blog to avoid confusion, so simply click the respective quote under their bios to head on over to their page. (Also VLM calls winemaker Rene Jean Dard a “douche-bag” in his post, so it’s not to be missed).
Hailing from Paris Sharon Bowman is an American girl finding her way around a sea of European wines. She is also one of the best wordsmiths on the interweb and has written on the subject of wine for real (as she terms them) publications (apparently not getting paid to contribute to blogs run by crass winos isn’t enough) such as Gastronomica and Critique. She dips in (for the second day in a row here at saignée) to some “orange” wines.
“Naturally Unnatural: Orange Wines”
Opened and poured into a large stem, the wine shone ocher through the glass. I swirled and smelled. 2006 Cà de Noci “Notte di luna” has heady perfumes of spice, cardamom, orange peel, gingerbread. I sipped and felt it expand in my mouth, sending floods of complex quince and tannin over my palate. This is god wine.
When VLM contacted me about participating in this had an idea of what he was going to write about. i was right. He is one of the rare hobbyist bloggers who knows what he likes, knows what the fuck he is talking about and can communicate it without bullshit (although i don’t agree with him on Dard et Ribo, but i’ll post on that later this month). The bio he sent me was ” I’m a sexual tyranasaurus from outer space.” I’ll leave it at that. (He’s drinking a 2003 Baudry Chinon Grezeaux by the way)
“Fucking Natural Wine”
The funny thing is that people always put me in the Alice Feiring, Joe Dressner, Marc Angeli camp. While a number of wines that I love happen to be natural, I don’t love them because they are natural wines. I’m no fucking communist. More of a libertarian, really…I think that the more closely you work with nature, the better that expression will be but the smartest people I know refuse to be dogmatic about it. In fact, if you are dogmatic it probably means you don’t know what the fuck you are talking about…So, should you give a shit about whether a wine is “natural?” Only if you’re an idiot. I think making natural wine is a better way to express terroir, almost assuredly…I call her winegrrrlll in the sack.
Follow day by day here: https://saignee.wordpress.com/31-days-of-natural-wine/
Next Up: Author Robert Camuto on why natural wine dogma sucks; or: If martinis come back in style i’m going to be fucking pissed.