The Golden Goat Awards, or saignée’s top 2000 wines of 2010 countdown
It’s awards season in the wine world!
Of all the things about modern day wine writing i deplore (read David Lillie’s excellent Muscadet piece in the latest Art of Eating for everything right about modern day writing), like tasting notes that delete “pleasure” or scores that delete almost everything, there is nothing that quite irks me as much as a ranked lists. the great vins de garde of the world side by side the great vins de soif with everything in between is a feat of mental gymnastics that very few people any good, except for magazines, collectors who don’t actually, you know, drink wine, and retailers and the very few “winners.”
Of course i realize that by saying the above i’m treading into some dreadfully clichéd territory. We’ve been down this path before, someone will agree, someone won’t agree, and very little will change. shelf talkers will still exist, as well as top 100 lists and little gold stickers to affix to said “top 100” bottles.
So this year saignée has decided to compile a list of wines that i enjoyed during the past year. i’m not going to bother to rank them in any sort of order. Instead, when in the course of any day i remember a wine that made me smile, i’m going to go ahead and write it down. i’ll tell you where i was when i drank it, what about it particularly made me happy, and if i know anything beyond that, i’ll add that it. i don’t how often i’ll be adding to this countdown, and there won’t actually be 2000 wines on the list, but whatever. And, if you would like, please put down wines that made you smile in the comments, or email them to me, and i’ll put them up for everyone to read.
Guy Bossard 2009 Muscadet “Cuvee Classique”: i drank this bottle on the porch of my great uncle’s house in Montreat North Carolina. It was early fall, still warm enough to be enjoyable, and certainly not hot enough to qualify for southern heat. I was there for a family reunion n my great grandmother’s side. The last family reunion we had was some 17 years ago, and of course many of the people had passed on, and many more had been born. Bossard, like may of the great Muscadet producers, makes the perfect antidote for many of the heavy handed wines that are just now going out of style. This is the type wine where what isn’t there is just as important as what is there. No heaviness, no extraction, no tricks, no pretense (unlike this sentence). Just pure beautiful wine.
Arrianna Occhipinti 2007 Il Frappato: Speaking of pure, beautiful wines is there anyone making wines quite as lovely as these? i was sitting there at a lunch with some friends and we were drinking Southern Italian wines when this was poured. And repoured, and then emptied, with a great deal of sadness, as this was the best bottle i’d yet tasted. If you ever want someone to get what a “natural” wine is, just tell them to get a bottle of this and save your breath. Or better yet sit and drink a bottle with them. i asked Joe Dressner how she did it and his reply was “nothing complicated.” Truer words have never been spoken.
To be continued…
(i have to write 999 more of these at this pace)