The Golden Goat Awards: The Gallons and Gallons Edition
Let’s hear it for the wines we actually drink. The ones that we can grab, drink on the roof while the sun sets. The bottles we aren’t afraid to drink out of plastic cups on the fourth of July so we don’t get ticketed. They are wines that keep us coming back for more.
These are the wines that aren’t fetish objects. They aren’t hoarded for profit, or shown off to friends, they don’t have price tags that impress people at steakhouses. These are the wines from the past year that drink.
These aren’t the type of wines that people will put in blind tasting lineups, you can save that for people who obsess over the minutiae of Burgundy terroirs while forgetting to, you know, enjoy anything they drink. They aren’t the type of wine that destroys a meal because o lord did we decant this long enough? Is this really a good pairing for this wine that is aged long after what is good anyway? No one will ever pour you two ounces of these wines and you’ll never treat them with faux-reverence.
Obsessing over “great” wines is perhaps the worst thing any body can do because, at a point, you start thinking in terms only these wines, and start forgetting the humbler wines that bring so much fucking joy. So here is to the wines that need no comparison, just a big glass (or cup, or mug, or one of those big Oktoberfest steins).
2009 Domaine de la Pepiere Mucadet Sevre et Maine, 2009 Jo Landron Amphibolite: There probably wasn’t a single wine i drank more of this year than Pepiere’s basic Muscadet, and no wine i wanted to drink more of than Jo Landron’s Amphibolite. In the words of my business partner, they “taste like wine.” They demand to be thrown back (from the bottle even, if you’re with the right company) not talked about.
2009 Clos de la Roilette Fleurie: Perhaps 2009 will be remembered as the year that people stopped drinking Beaujolais and replaced that activity with breathless hype. God i hope not. Such a great wine to simply drink, this especially. Someone says this wine can age, but i’m having a hard time doing that, but who cares. get off the internet grab a chicken, roast it, grab a bottle of this if you can find it and drink.
2009 Clos du Tue Bouef Brin de Chevre: i remember finding a bottle of this hiding in my fridge months after the party we had bought it for. i drank it that night. i wish i hadn’t because i would still have it and could be drinking it right now.
2009 La Clarine Suma Kaw Syrah: i like Hank Beckmeyer. i like Hank Beckmeyer’s wines. He makes beautiful, soulful wines and i think who Hank is shows in his wines. Interesting how knowing someone and the enjoyment of what they do go hand in hand. i could list a bunch of fruits and spices that make up Hank’s wines, or i could talk about Hank himself. About how he rescued a goat, nursed it back to helth, kept it in his living room. Which would you rather hear? This is why objectivity is bullshit. Everytime i drink this it brings a smile to my face, good memories of walking through La Clarine, that chicken with the afro. When someone tells you it’s what’s in the glass that counts, hopefully you know some winemaker that makes that statement untrue.
2009 Phillipe Bornard Tant Mieux Pet-Nat: Guilhaume and i drank this with Phillipe Bornard himself at Manu Houillon’s house. Sylvie Augereau was there interviewing Manu and the technical French was extremely hard to follow. We were tasting barrel samples, back vintages, serious wine stuff. This wine was the perfect counterpoint when we took a break to eat.
2008 Plageoles Mauzac Nature: Saprkling Mauzac drank in the middle of nowhere France with a noisy cat and a beautiful meal, simplicity at it’s best. What else do you need?
ps. it’s been a shitty week over at saignée so please, for me, hug a loved one!